Lhotse Middle 8,413m. Expedition

Trip Fact

Trip Duration 45 Days

Destination Nepal

Trip Grade Mountaineering

Activity Expedition

Max. Altitude 8,413m. - (27,657ft)

Accomodation Lodge + Camping

Transportation By Air

Meals Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner

Best Season Spring & Autumn

Minimum Pax 2 Climber

Maximum Pax No Limit

More Facts Less Facts

Mount Lhotse Middle highest un-climbed subsidiary peak in the world, close to Lhotse main, the 4th highest peak of the world, to the west and Lhotse Shar the only slightly lower east peak of Lhotse to the east. Both other peaks have already been climbed. The Lhotse group lies directly to the south of Everest. Several expeditions have tried to climb Lhotse middle, but unsuccessfully. One of the problems is the fact that there are no ridges leading directly to the summit so first Lhotse main or, Lhotse Shar have to be tackled. Mt. Lhotse Middle remained, for a long time, its first ascent was made by Eugeny Vinogradsky, Sergei Timofeev, Alexei Bolotov and Petr Kuznetsov of a Russian expedition on May 23, 2001 at 03:00 pm. The Lhotse climbing standard route follows the same path as Everest's South Col route up to the Yellow Band beyond Camp 3. After the Yellow Band the routes diverge with climbers bound for Everest taking a left over the Geneva Spur up to the South Col, while Lhotse climbers take a right further up the Lhotse face. The last part to the summit leads through a narrow couloir until the Lhotse main peak is reached.

This Lhotse Middle expedition requires a high level of climbing proficiency on steep, exposed and technical skill and altitude experience is mandatory. It's an ideal climb designed for previous our Everest climbers or those who have tested climbs at 7000m. +. All members will participate in a training session at base camp to make sure we are all on the same page with safety protocol and technical skills. To shorten the time spent in the ice fall in gaining acclimatization needed to ascend safely we test ourselves on higher objectives in the area. We provide a Camp 1 at but it is mainly used as stopover and emergency camp if needed. The plan will be for everyone to be prepared enough to move directly to Camp 2 (6,400m.), spend two nights and then move up to Camp 3 (7,200m.) on the Lhotse Face. We'll spend one night here before descending back to Camp 2 then the next day back to Base Camp where we will wait till the route has been established and camp provisions are in place for the summit push.

Note:

If you have your own private group or team, please e-mail us to know the price and details of expedition.
Looking to join a group? if so, feel free to contact us for more information.

Detail Itinerary

Departure Detail

Spring Season:
Kathmandu Arrival Date: April 07, 2026
Expedition Fixed Departure Date: April 10, 2026

Autumn Season:
Kathmandu Arrival Date: September 07, 2026
Expedition Fixed Departure Date: September 10, 2026

Note for expedition participants:
Expedition service up to Base Camp: This applies to those who have booked the expedition service - up to Base Camp. The cost does not include the High Altitude (H. A.) Climbing Sherpa guide, food and fuel, tents, climbing gear, fixed ropes up to the summit, or the Sherpa’s bonus beyond Advance Base Camp.

Additional Cost for a High Altitude Climbing Sherpa: USD 4,500 (If required by client).

The additional cost for a High Altitude Climbing Sherpa (H. A.) includes: Expedition equipment allowance, Personal climbing gears, daily wages, food and fuel from base camp to summit, helicopter rescue coverage, medical expenses, accident insurance for the Sherpa, all ground transportation, domestic flight tickets (Kathmandu–Lukla–Kathmandu or Ramechhap–Lukla–Ramechhap), and a personal sleeping tent at base camp, among other essentials.

Summit Bonus for High Altitude Climbing Sherpa (H. A.): USD 500 for reaching Camp at 8,000m, plus USD 1000 for climbing from 8,000m to the summit - total USD 1500. This amount is payable on the spot (ABC) by the climbing member and applies only to those climber who purchase expedition services - up to summit.

We will provide the expedition cost based on your group size and specific service requirements. Please feel free to email us or use the 'Book Expedition' form to send us your inquiry.

Start Date	End Date	Price	Season	Status	Booking
10 September, 2025	19 October, 2025	US$ 9,700 ( Upto Basecamp ) US$ 11,900 ( Upto Summit )	Autumn	Guaranteed	Book Now
10 April, 2026	19 May, 2026	US$ 9,700 ( Upto Basecamp ) US$ 11,900 ( Upto Summit )	Spring	Available	Book Now
10 September, 2026	19 October, 2026	US$ 9,700 ( Upto Basecamp ) US$ 11,900 ( Upto Summit )	Autumn	Available	Book Now
10 April, 2027	19 May, 2027	US$ 9,700 ( Upto Basecamp ) US$ 11,900 ( Upto Summit )	Spring	Available	Book Now
10 September, 2027	19 October, 2027	US$ 9,700 ( Upto Basecamp ) US$ 11,900 ( Upto Summit )	Autumn	Available	Book Now

Up to Base Camp Cost Includes

All Pick up and drop off services for both international and domestic flights as per the itinerary. (Airport/Hotel/Airport - expedition pick up and drop off).
5 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on bed and breakfast plan. (3 nights before and 2 nights after the expedition.)
A welcome dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant in Kathmandu.
Domestic flight Ticket: Kathmandu/Lukla/Kathmandu or, Ramechhap/Lukla/Ramechhap for members, Liaison officer, Base Camp Sirdar, Manager and Cook with airport tax and cargo fees.
Toyota Hiace or, tourist Bus transportation: Kathmandu/Ramechhap/Kathmandu - If the flight is scheduled.
Jeep or, Bus transportation: Kathmandu/Surke/Kathmandu for all kitchen teams, food and expedition gears bags.
Climbing mountaineering Royalty and all other necessary fees to climb Mount Lhotse Middle.
Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality entry permit and Sagarmatha National Park entrance fee.
Khumbu Ice-fall route fee.
Summit route fixing charge.
Garbage Management and Garbage Disposal fees.
Nepal tourist visa extension fee. (If required by member)
Government Liaison officer with his daily wages, equipment charges, all meals, insurance and both-way airfare.
Transport of food supply and expedition equipments to Base Camp and back.
3 Meals breakfast/Lunch/Dinner and accommodation at teahouse lodges during the trekking to base camp and back.
Each Members will be provided an individual Tent (Kailas/Box Tent), Mattress at Base Camp.
Common Equipment at Lhotse Middle or, Everest Base Camp such as Dining Tent, Kitchen Tent,
Communication Tent, Shower Tent, Toilet Tent, Tables, Chairs, Cooking utensils and Heater, etc.
Freshly cooked meals (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner): Continental, Nepali, Indian, Tibetan and Chinese items with hot drinks, Tea and Coffee.
Fresh green vegetables, fresh meat, fresh fruits, juice, and drinks will be regularly served at Base Camp.
Experienced Base Camp Sirdar, Manager, Cook and Kitchen helpers at Base Camp.
Necessary Porters up to the Base Camp from Lukla and return from the Base Camp.
2 Expedition Cultural Treks duffel bag or, barrel for each member.
Per Person 50 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels allowed for expedition till Base Camp.
Per Person 40 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels is allowed for returned to Kathmandu.
Equipments allowance, daily wages of base camp sirdar, Manager, Cook, kitchen helpers and porters.
High Altitude Medical expenses, Helicopter rescue coverage insurance for BC Sirdar, Cook, porters and involved Nepalese staffs.
Generator or, Solar panel at Base Camp for light, charging camera and mobile set.
SAT phone or, Mobile phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use at $ 3 per minute.
Walkie-Talkie for communicating from Base Camp.
Emergency medical Oxygen bottle with mask and regulator or, Gamow Bag at Base Camp. (Lifesaver device).
Weather forecast information during the entire expedition.
Sufficient backup oxygen bottles and Mask, Regulator set available at our Base Camp (Chargeable as per use).
First Aid Medical Kit Box with medicines at base camp.
Farewell dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant in Kathmandu.
Mount Lhotse Middle summit certificate after the successful summit of the peak.
Government official taxes and company service charge.

Up to Base Camp Cost Excludes

International airfare: To and from your country.
Nepal entry visa fee (To be applied for 60 days - Visa can be obtained upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport-Kathmandu).
Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
Hotel after 6 nights stay in Kathmandu.
Personal trekking and climbing gears (trekking & climbing Boots).
Hight altitude climbing Sherpa guide and his related expenses.
High altitude tents/sleeping bags and mattress etc.
High Camp Services: High Tent, Shovel, Rope, EPI Gas, Gas Burner (MSR Rector) and High Food, etc.
Oxygen bottles with mask and regulator for expedition use.
Charges for communication equipment and commercial filming permits during the trek and expedition.
Airport customs charges for expedition gear and materials.
Personal insurance such as travel, accident, Hospital medical expenses, emergency evacuation and lost your luggage.
Applicable customs charges for Drone and special filming permit.
Personal Expenses: Phone calls, internet, battery recharge, laundry service, postage, alcoholic beverages,
bottles and canned beverages, specialty coffee or espresso drinks etc during in teahouse lodges on the way to base camp and return.
Bank/wire transfer fees (if applicable).
International airport departure tax at Kathmandu Airport - TIA.
Any other service cost which is not included in the Cost Includes.
Tips for Nepali base camp support crew’s.

Tipping System:
Tipping is done on a group-sharing basis by expedition participants. The minimum recommended amounts are:
1. Base Camp Guide & Cook: Min. USD 300 each.
2. BC Kitchen Boys/Helpers: Min. USD 200 each.
3. Porters: Min. USD 50 each.
Participants are kindly encouraged to tip above these amounts in accordance with work performance.

Up to Summit Cost Includes(Full Board Basis)

All Pick up and drop off services for both international and domestic flights as per the itinerary. (Airport/Hotel/Airport - expedition pick up and drop off).
5 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on bed and breakfast plan. (3 nights before and 2 nights after the expedition.)
A welcome dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant in Kathmandu.
Domestic flight Ticket: Kathmandu/Lukla/Kathmandu or, Ramechhap/Lukla/Ramechhap for members, Liaison officer, H. A. climbing Sherpa Guide, Base Camp Sirdar, Manager and Cook with airport tax and cargo fees.
Toyota Hiace or, tourist Bus transportation: Kathmandu/Ramechhap/Kathmandu - If the flight is scheduled.
Jeep or, Bus transportation: Kathmandu/Surke/Kathmandu for all kitchen teams, food and expedition gears bags.
Climbing mountaineering Royalty and all other necessary fees to climb Mount Lhotse Middle.
Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality entry permit and Sagarmatha National Park entrance fee.
Khumbu Ice-fall route fee.
Summit route fixing charge.
Garbage Management and Garbage Disposal fees.
Nepal tourist visa extension fee. (If required by member)
Government Liaison officer with his daily wages, equipment charges, all meals, insurance and both-way airfare.
1 Professional Lhotse or, Everest Summiteer H. A. climbing Sherpa guide with his equipment allowance,
daily wages, and carrying bonus.
Each climbing member will be accompanied by one High Altitude climbing Sherpa guide.
Transport of food supply and expedition equipments to Base Camp and back.
3 Meals breakfast/Lunch/Dinner and accommodation at teahouse lodges during the trekking to base camp and back.
Each Members will be provided an individual Tent (Kailas/Box Tent), Mattress at Base Camp.
Common Equipment at Lhotse Middle or Everest Base Camp such as Dining Tent, Kitchen Tent,
Communication Tent, Shower Tent, Toilet Tent, Tables, Chairs, Cooking utensils and Heater, etc.
Freshly cooked meals (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner): Continental, Nepali, Indian, Tibetan and Chinese items with hot drinks, Tea and Coffee.
Fresh green vegetables, fresh meat, fresh fruits, juice, and drinks will be regularly served at Base Camp.
Experienced Base Camp Sirdar, Manager, Cook and Kitchen helpers at Base Camp, Camp-2 Cook and Kitchen helpers.
Necessary Porters up to the Base Camp from Lukla and return from the Base Camp.
2 Expedition Cultural Treks duffel bag or, barrel for each member.
Per Person 50 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels allowed for expedition till Base Camp.
Per Person 40 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels is allowed for returned to Kathmandu.
Equipments allowance, daily wages of base camp sirdar, Manager, Cook, kitchen helpers and porters.
High Altitude Medical expenses, Helicopter rescue coverage insurance for H. A. climbing Sherpa, BC Sirdar,
Cook, porters and involved Nepalese staffs.
Common climbing equipment such as ropes, ice screws, ice bar, ice or rock pitons, etc.
High Camp Services for C1-C4: High Tent, Shovel, Rope, EPI Gas, Gas Burner (MSR Rector) and High Food, etc.
Common Equipment at C2: Member Tent, Kitchen Tent, Dining Tent and Toilet Tent (2 Members per tent).
High altitude tents/sleeping bags and mattress.
Generator or, Solar panel at Base Camp for light, charging camera and mobile set.
Walkie-Talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.
SAT phone or, Mobile phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use at $ 3 per minute.
Emergency medical Oxygen bottle with mask and regulator or, Gamow Bag at Base Camp. (Lifesaver device).
Weather forecast during the entire expedition.
5 Oxygen (4ltr.) bottles per member with mask and regulator for expedition use. (Poisk Oxygen System).
2 Oxygen (4ltr.) for H. A. climbing Sherpa guide.
Sufficient backup oxygen bottles and Mask, Regulator set available at our Base Camp (Chargeable as per use).
First Aid Medical Kit Box with medicines at base camp.
Farewell dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant in Kathmandu.
Mount Lhotse Middle summit certificate after the successful summit of the peak.
Government official taxes and company service charge.

Up to Summit Cost Excludes

International airfare: To and from your country.
Nepal entry visa fee (To be applied for 60 days - Visa can be obtained upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport-Kathmandu).
Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
Hotel after 6 nights stay in Kathmandu.
Personal trekking and climbing gears (trekking & climbing Boots).
Charges for communication equipment and commercial filming permits during the trek and expedition.
Airport customs charges for expedition gear and materials.
Personal insurance such as travel, accident, Hospital medical expenses, emergency evacuation and lost your luggage.
Applicable permit fees, customs charges, Drone and commercial filming permit.
Personal Expenses: Phone calls, internet, battery recharge, laundry service, postage, alcoholic beverages, bottles and canned beverages, specialty coffee or espresso drinks etc during in teahouse lodges on the way to base camp and return.
Bank/wire transfer fees (if applicable).
Summit Bonus for Personal H. A. climbing Sherpa guide USD 1000. (Please see the information mentioned below.)
International airport departure tax at Kathmandu Airport - TIA.
Any other service cost which is not included in the Cost Includes.
Tips for Nepali base camp support crew’s.

Spring Itinerary

07 April - Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1,350m.), meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
08 April - Day 02: Free day in Kathmandu, preparation and briefing about trip at evening.
09 April - Day 03: Official work for expedition and briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
10 April - Day 04: Flight to Lukla (2,860m.) then trek to Phakding (2,622m.) O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
11 April - Day 05: Phakding – Namche Bazar (3,440m.). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
12 April - Day 06: Rest day for acclimatization and hiking around. O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
13 April - Day 07: Namche Bazar – Tengboche (3,867m.). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
14 April - Day 08: Tengboche – Dingboche (4,343m.). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
15 April - Day 09: Dingboche – Lobuche (4,915m.). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
16 April - Day 10: Lobuche – Lhotse/Everest Base Camp (5,380m.). Set up Camp - O/N at Camping.
17 April/13 May Day 11/37: Climbing Period for Mt. Lhotse East (Lhotse Middle 8,413m.) - Full Camping.
14 May - Day 38: Cleaning up Base Camp and backpack. O/N at Camping.
15 May - Day 39: Trek back to Pheriche (4,343m.). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
16 May - Day 40: Pheriche – Tengboche (3,837m.). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
17 May - Day 41: Tengboche – Namche Bazar (3,440m.). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
18 May - Day 42: Namche Bazar – Lukla and transfer to Teahouse Lodge.
19 May - Day 43: Fly back to Kathmandu then transfer to Hotel.
20 May - Day 44: Kathmandu free for D-briefing and rest, farewell dinner at evening.
21 May - Day 45: Last minute, transfer to airport for your onward journey. Final Departure.

Autumn Itinerary

07 September - Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1,350m.), meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
08 September - Day 02: Free day in Kathmandu, preparation and briefing about trip at evening.
09 September - Day 03: Official work for expedition and briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
10 September - Day 04: Flight to Lukla (2,860m.), trek to Phakding (2,622m.) O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
11 September - Day 05: Phakding – Namche Bazar (3,440m.). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
12 September - Day 06: Rest day for acclimatization and Hiking around. O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
13 September - Day 07: Namche Bazar – Tengboche (3,867m.). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
14 September - Day 08: Tengboche – Dingboche (4,343m.). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
15 September - Day 09: Dingboche – Lobuche (4,915m.). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
16 September - Day 10: Lobuche – Lhotse/Everest Base Camp (5,380m.)- Set up Camping. O/N at Camping.
17 Sept./13 Oct. Day 11/37: Climbing Period for Mt. Lhotse East (Middle 8,413m.) - Full Camping.
14 October - Day 38: Cleaning up Base Camp and backpack. O/N at Camping.
15 October - Day 39: Trek back to Pheriche (4,343m.). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
16 October - Day 40: Pheriche – Tengboche (3,837m.). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
17 October - Day 41: Tengboche – Namche Bazar (3,440m.). O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
18 October - Day 42: Namche Bazar – Lukla and transfer to Teahouse Lodge.
19 October - Day 43: Fly back to Kathmandu then transfer to Hotel.
20 October - Day 44: Kathmandu free for D-briefing and rest, farewell dinner at evening.
21 October - Day 45: Last minute, transfer to airport for your onward journey. Final Departure.

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Mountain Info

Location: Asia, Nepal
Himalayan Range: Mahalangur Himal
Height: 8,413m. - (27,657ft)
Latitude: 27º 57’ 42” N
Longitude: 86º 56’ 00” E
Trip Days: 45 Days
Normal Ascent Route: West East Face
First Ascent: May 23, 2001 by Eugeny Vinogradsky, Sergei Timofeev, Alexei Bolotov and Petr Kuznetsov of a Russian expedition.
Easiest Route: Glacier/snow/ice climb
Grade: Mountaineering
Group Size: Minimum 4 Pax in Group/Group Joining Basis
Lodging Level: Hotel/Lodge/Camping
Accommodation: 5 Nights Kathmandu and 39 Nights Lodges/Camping
Food: B/L/D, included, Except lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
Best Seasons: Spring/Autumn
Caravan Route: Kathmandu - Lukla - Namche Bazar - Tengboche - Lobuche - Gorakshep - Lhotse/Everest Base Camp - Lukla Bazar - Kathmandu

Trip Information

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