Kyazo Ri Peak Expedition-Khumbu-Nepal
Kyazo Ri Peak Climbing
Kyazo Ri Peak Climbing, Khumbu Region, Nepal
Mt. Everest and Ama Dablam Views from Namche Bazar

Kyazo Ri Peak 6,151m. Climbing

Trip Fact

Trip Duration 18 Days

Destination Nepal

Trip Grade Mountaineering

Activity Peak Climbing

Max. Altitude 6151m. - 20180ft.

Accomodation Lodge + Camping

Transportation By Air

Meals Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner

Best Season Spring & Autumn

Minimum Pax 2 Climber

Maximum Pax No Limit

More Facts Less Facts

Kyazo Ri peak is located in the Khumbu Himal, running just north side of Namche Bazar, is a long line of peaks continuing all the way to Cho Oyu on the Nepalese-Tibetan border. With the Thame valley to the west and the Gokyo valley to the east the (6151m. - 20180ft.) high Kyazo Ri (Kyajo Ri) is the highest summit on the southern part of this ridge. Kyajo Ri Peak height (6,151m. - Kyazo Ri) officially fixed by the Nepal Mountaineering Association.

History:
The peak was opened to climbing by the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism, in 2002 and the first (official) ascent was made that year by a Franco/British team. They approached from Machhermo, traversed the Kyazo Glacier and climbed via the Southwest Ridge. The same route was repeated in 2003 by a French team as an acclimatization outing in preparation for the difficult North Face of Machharmo peak, which they then climbed (Bonfire of the Vanities). Also in 2003, a Dutch team climbed the Southwest Ridge route after failing on an attempt of the east face. In 2005 an American team climbed the more difficult Southeast Ridge establishing only the second route on the peak. There have been a few other attempts on the mountain – an Australian in 2005 and an American in the spring of 2006, a Korean (perhaps), and possibly others.

Difficulty:
There is significant technical climbing at high altitude. Summit day is very long and tiring. The approach trek to base Camp is not overly difficult and is suitable for experienced off-trail hikers in good condition. In difficulty it is probably comparable to the Cho La route, or to treks that cross the Renjo La, and perhaps a bit harder than the Kala Patar trek near Everest Base Camp.

Camp 1 (5,280m.) is a long way, and a hard day over rough, but non-technical terrain. Camp 2 is not so far from Camp 1 but the intervening climbing is occasionally over difficult tall us and giant boulders.

Camp 2 (5,700m.) we are able to move together a short way, then soon begin belayed climbing. We climb about 12 pitches of steep snow and ice, to perhaps 65° in steepness for one or two pitches just below the summit. We will belay, lower and rappel the same route on descent. Overall, the difficulty is comparable to the summit day on Ama Dablam. Kyazo Ri is significantly harder physically and technically than Lobuche West - East or Island Peak.

Detail Itinerary

Peak Climbing Cost Includes:

Land transportation by Car, Van, Hiace or, tourist Bus (Airport/Hotel/Airport, trekking pick up and drop).
4 Night’s Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu at Bed and breakfast basis.
3 Major meals; B/L/D (by Lodge menu) and accommodation at best available teahouse lodge during the trek en-route.
Full board basis services while in Kyazo Ri Peak in tented camp.
All kitchen equipments; kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent at the Base Camp.
1 Trekking + Climbing guide, Cook, Kitchen boys and necessary Porter. (1 Porter between two member)
Equipment charges for climbing guide.
Life insurance for all support crews and their daily wages.
Per member 15 Kg. luggage allow while in the trekking.
Peak Permit, Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality entrance fees, Sagarmatha National Park permit and garbage deposit.
Snow bars and enough rope for the climbing as well as tented camp while on climbing to Kyazo Ri Peak.
Air Ticket: Kathmandu/Lukla/Kathmandu with domestic airport tax and cargo fees.
Medical Kit Box for Nepali support crews.
All official taxes and service charge.

Peak Climbing Cost Doesn’t Include:

Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
Airfare from/to your country.
Nepal entry visa fee. (Can be obtained at the airport upon arrival).
Hotel after 5 nights stay in Kathmandu.
Drinks except tea and coffee. (Hot water, mineral water and cold drinks is not included)
Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
Walki -Takie permit & Satellite phone permit.
Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical and emergency evacuation.
Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone, etc.
International airport departure tax.
Tips and climbing bonus.

Spring Itinerary

Outline Peak Climbing Itinerary: A Via Mende Village

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1,350m.), meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: Free day in Kathmandu, preparation and briefing about trip at evening.
Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2,860m.) and trek to Phakding Village (2,610m.) O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 04: Phakding Village – Namche Bazar (3,440m.) O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 05: Namche Bazar rest for acclimatization and explore around, O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 06: Namche Bazar – Mende Village (3,736m.) O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 07: Mende Village - Kyazo Ri Peak Base Camp (4,550m.) Set up Camp. O/N at Camping.
Day 08: Day for acclimatization and preparation for climbing at Base Camp. O/N at Camping.
Day 09: Kyazo Ri Base Camp to Camp - 1 (5,280m.) Set up Camp, preparation. Full Camping.
Day 10: Climb from Camp 1 to Camp - 2 (5,700m. Set up Camp for final ascent. Full Camping.
Day 11/12: Ascent Kyazo Ri Peak (6,151m.) summit and return to Base Camp. Full Camping.
Day 13: Contingency days incase of bad weather, Clean Base Camp and backpack. O/N at Camping.
Day 14: Kyazo Ri Base camp to Namche Bazar. O/N at Teahouse Lodge/Hotel.
Day 15: Namche Bazar – Lukla and transfer to Teahouse Lodge/Hotel.
Day 16: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel.
Day 17: Kathmandu leisure and farewell dinner at evening.
Day 18: Last minute, transfers to airport for your onward journey. Final Departure.

Outline Peak Climbing Itinerary: B via Gokyo Lake

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1,350m.), meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: Free day in Kathmandu, preparation and briefing about trip at evening.
Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2,860m.) and trek to Phakding Village (2,610m.) O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 04: Phakding Village – Namche Bazar (3,440m.) O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 05: Namche Bazar rest for acclimatization and explore around, O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 06: Namche Bazar - Dole (4,200m.) O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 07: Dole - Machhermo (4,470m.) O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 08: Machharmo - Gokyo Lake (4,790m.) O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 09: Morning Hiking to Gokyo Ri (Gokyo Peak - 5,360m.) return to Gokyo Lake.
Day 10: Gokyo Lake - Renjo-La Pass (5,360m.) - Lungden (4,380m.) O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 11: Lungden to Thame Village (3,800m.) O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 12: Thame Village to Mende (3,736m.) O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 13: Mende Village to Kyazo Ri Peak Base Camp (4,550m.) Set up Camp. O/N at Camping.
Day 14: Day for acclimatization and preparation for climbing at Base Camp. O/N at Camping.
Day 15: Kyazo Ri Base Camp to Camp - 1 (5,280m.) Set up Camp, preparation. Full Camping.
Day 16: Climb from Camp 1 to Camp - 2 (5,700m. Set up Camp for final ascent. Full Camping.
Day 17: Ascent Kyazo Ri Peak (6,151m.) summit and return to Base Camp. Full Camping.
Day 18: Contingency days incase of bad weather, Clean Base Camp and backpack. O/N at Camping.
Day 19: Kyazo Ri Base camp to Namche Bazar. O/N at Teahouse Lodge/Hotel.
Day 20: Namche Bazar – Lukla and transfer to Teahouse Lodge/Hotel.
Day 21: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel.
Day 22: Kathmandu leisure and farewell dinner at evening.
Day 23: Last minute, transfers to airport for your onward journey. Final Departure.

Autumn Itinerary

Outline Peak Climbing Itinerary: A Via Mende Village

Outline Peak Climbing Itinerary: B via Gokyo Lake

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1,350m.), meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: Free day in Kathmandu, preparation and briefing about trip at evening.
Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2,860m.) and trek to Phakding Village (2,610m.) O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 04: Phakding Village – Namche Bazar (3,440m.) O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 05: Namche Bazar rest for acclimatization and explore around, O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 06: Namche Bazar - Dole (4,200m.) O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 07: Dole - Machhermo (4,470m.) O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 08: Machharmo - Gokyo Lake (4,790m.) O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 09: Morning Hiking to Gokyo Ri (Gokyo Peak - 5,360m.) return to Gokyo Lake.
Day 10: Gokyo Lake - Renjo-La Pass (5,360m.) - Lungden (4,380m.) O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 11: Lungden to Thame Village (3,800m.) O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 12: Thame Village to Mende (3,736m.) O/N at Teahouse Lodge.
Day 13: Mende Village to Kyazo Ri Peak Base Camp (4,550m.) Set up Camp. O/N at Camping.
Day 14: Day for acclimatization and preparation for climbing at Base Camp. O/N at Camping.
Day 15: Kyazo Ri Base Camp to Camp - 1 (5,280m.) Set up Camp, preparation. Full Camping.
Day 16: Climb from Camp 1 to Camp - 2 (5,700m. Set up Camp for final ascent. Full Camping.
Day 17: Ascent Kyazo Ri Peak (6,151m.) summit and return to Base Camp. Full Camping.
Day 18: Contingency days incase of bad weather, Clean Base Camp and backpack. O/N at Camping.
Day 19: Kyazo Ri Base camp to Namche Bazar. O/N at Teahouse Lodge/Hotel.
Day 20: Namche Bazar – Lukla and transfer to Teahouse Lodge/Hotel.
Day 21: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel.
Day 22: Kathmandu leisure and farewell dinner at evening.
Day 23: Last minute, transfers to airport for your onward journey. Final Departure.

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Mountain Info

Location: Asia, Nepal
Trip Days: 18, 23 Days
Height: 6151m. - 20180ft.
Latitude: 27° 54′ 33″ N
Longitude: 86° 40′ 17″ O
Grade: Mountaineering
Normal Ascent Route: Normal
First Ascent: 2002 by Duncan Wilson and Vincent Marche/a Franco/British team
Easiest Route: Rock/Snow/ice climb
Group Size: Minimum 2 Person/Group Joining Basis/Private Group
Lodging Level: Hotel/Lodge/Camping
Accomodation: 4 Nights Kathmandu and 13 Nights Lodges/Camping - 4 Nights Kathmandu and 18 Nights Lodges/Camping
Food: Included B/L/D except main meals in Kathmandu
Best Seasons: Spring/Autumn
Caravan Route: Kathmandu - Lukla - Namche Bazar - Mende - or, Gokyo Lake - Kyazo Ri Peak Base Camp - Namche Bazar - Lukla - Kathmandu

Trip Information

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